Anyone an Expert (or just really good) at Wood Finishing/Refinishing?

[raider_kin]

These two pics are of a cedar chest I inherited from my grandmother. I accidentally set a damp towel down on it, and when I finally picked it up, this was the result. It looks like the wood became white in places!? Anyone have a suggestion or two about what I can use on it to better the finish? Thanks.

PS both pics are very similar I know, lighting is a bit different, thought what the hell, post both

20260227_121211.jpg

[Attyla]

The marks are caused by the moisture. Gently applying Homax Furniture White Ring Remover should remove the marks without damaging the chest.
Easily available from Amazon

I am no expert at woodworking but it did the trick to my home bar and left the finish below untouched.

[Dr Death]

I suppose I would be the resident guy you are looking for...lol. I've been a professional Cabinet Maker/Furniture Maker for almost 50 years. Retired and currently working in a furniture restoration/re-finishing shop (SS doesn't pay well enough...lol) and my own shop ocassionally.

Depending on what the finish is... most likely high build laquer, it might go away with time but, I doubt it. You could try what Attyla suggested but, I don't think it will do much good. It might make it better but, I highly doubt it will make it like it was. Being that it's more than likely a laquer finish...and it looks like the wood is left natural and not stained, it is a relatively easy repair.

Sand the suface with 150 grit sandpaper to the bare wood. Spray 3-4 coats of laquer... scuff with 220 grit after the first two coats. Spray 1-2 more coats and you're done. Laquer must be sprayed, it can't be brushed.

[raider_kin]

The marks are caused by the moisture. Gently applying Homax Furniture White Ring Remover should remove the marks without damaging the chest.
Easily available from Amazon

I am no expert at woodworking but it did the trick to my home bar and left the finish below untouched.

Thank you for that, I appreciate it.

[raider_kin]

I suppose I would be the resident guy you are looking for...lol. I've been a professional Cabinet Maker/Furniture Maker for almost 50 years. Retired and currently working in a furniture restoration/re-finishing shop (SS doesn't pay well enough...lol) and my own shop ocassionally.

Depending on what the finish is... most likely high build laquer, it might go away with time but, I doubt it. You could try what Attyla suggested but, I don't think it will do much good. It might make it better but, I highly doubt it will make it like it was. Being that it's more than likely a laquer finish...and it looks like the wood is left natural and not stained, it is a relatively easy repair.

Sand the suface with 150 grit sandpaper to the bare wood. Spray 3-4 coats of laquer... scuff with 220 grit after the first two coats. Spray 1-2 more coats and you're done. Laquer must be sprayed, it can't be brushed.

Thank you Dr. I wish I could do more carpentry and wood working but I don't have a shop. I'm pretty good with most tools but as you can see with finishes I'm a fish out of water.

[RickRyb]

I suppose I would be the resident guy you are looking for...lol. I've been a professional Cabinet Maker/Furniture Maker for almost 50 years. Retired and currently working in a furniture restoration/re-finishing shop (SS doesn't pay well enough...lol) and my own shop ocassionally.

Depending on what the finish is... most likely high build laquer, it might go away with time but, I doubt it. You could try what Attyla suggested but, I don't think it will do much good. It might make it better but, I highly doubt it will make it like it was. Being that it's more than likely a laquer finish...and it looks like the wood is left natural and not stained, it is a relatively easy repair.

Sand the suface with 150 grit sandpaper to the bare wood. Spray 3-4 coats of laquer... scuff with 220 grit after the first two coats. Spray 1-2 more coats and you're done. Laquer must be sprayed, it can't be brushed.

The last 25 years of my career before retiring, cabinet/furniture makers were the primary customers of the company I worked for.

[Cruisin with Tooz]

I suppose I would be the resident guy you are looking for...lol. I've been a professional Cabinet Maker/Furniture Maker for almost 50 years. Retired and currently working in a furniture restoration/re-finishing shop (SS doesn't pay well enough...lol) and my own shop ocassionally.

Depending on what the finish is... most likely high build laquer, it might go away with time but, I doubt it. You could try what Attyla suggested but, I don't think it will do much good. It might make it better but, I highly doubt it will make it like it was. Being that it's more than likely a laquer finish...and it looks like the wood is left natural and not stained, it is a relatively easy repair.

Sand the suface with 150 grit sandpaper to the bare wood. Spray 3-4 coats of laquer... scuff with 220 grit after the first two coats. Spray 1-2 more coats and you're done. Laquer must be sprayed, it can't be brushed.

Can the finish a person can attain with readily available equipment and supplies ever match the finish results that a builder like Kraftsmaid, Thomasville or Wood Mode gets? I understand they use oven baking in their finishing process.

[Dr Death]

Can the finish a person can attain with readily available equipment and supplies ever match the finish results that a builder like Kraftsmaid, Thomasville or Wood Mode gets? I understand they use oven baking in their finishing process.

I'm not aware of any "baked on" finishes in the industry. I would think it would be detrimental to the wood and joinery/adhesives. There are UV cured finishes on the market, but I'm not aware of any manufactuer that uses them extensively. Those are mostly used by small custom makers.

Can professional results be attained with available equipment and products? Sure. But.... not with a $20.00 spray gun and Home Depot DYI products. Like anything else worth while, it takes quality equipment and product/s to accomplish satisfactory results. Prep is the most important step in achieving a professional result.

[Cruisin with Tooz]

https://www.kraftmaid.com/company/manuf ... %20topcoat.

[Dr Death]

Interesting. I'm not sure how you apply a sealer/finsh with pressure? Either it is brushed on, srayed on or dipped (small parts)..... none of those methods has anything to do with pressure. If it is cured in an oven it can't get very hot. I still don't see how it wouldn't affect the wood or joinery. I use heat to loosen joints/glue all the time.

I'm not saying it can't be.... I'm old and I don't know the new ways...apparently.

[Cruisin with Tooz]

Interesting. I'm not sure how you apply a sealer/finsh with pressure? Either it is brushed on, srayed on or dipped (small parts)..... none of those methods has anything to do with pressure. If it is cured in an oven it can't get very hot. I still don't see how it wouldn't affect the wood or joinery. I use heat to loosen joints/glue all the time.

I'm not saying it can't be.... I'm old and I don't know the new ways...apparently.

I assume it would be in a pressurized chamber. It must lead to a deeper penetration of the coating. Must be a very low temperature oven, maybe 150-160F? Id like an oven that could maintain that temp. That would be perfect for the 12 hour hold for brisket making!!!